Visag (gut hook knife) 2./2016
As being in the progress of learning, I found, that making a knife for my brother would be an interesting challange, where I'd make a knife from the very beginning to the finished product.
Unfortunately I did not have the idea of writing this blog back then, so I don't have too many pictures on file. :( I for sure will document my future knives (both photo and video).
The steel is O-1 tool steel (1.2510 in Europe) 2.2x40 mm, total length of blade is 23cm.
I have drawn the shape of the knife on the steel bar. (knife pattern is from DC Knives, thank you Dan for your work with all this knife patterns) After cutting out the rough shape with the angle grinder, I have filed out te final shape of the knife, drilled a way too big hole (10mm), way too deep for the gut hook :), drilled a hole for the ricasso. I have modifíed the original pattern of Dan, by making the spine of the knife a bit higher, making it a nice arc. Since my brother has a bigger hand, the handle is 2mm wider, than the original drawing.
As you can see, I have burned the gut hook a tiny bit with the angle grinder, but this is no issue, since the cutting will take effect in side the circle, where an edge will be created.
Ready for heat treat!
Sanded with p180 sandpaper, gut hook is already pretty close to sharp. I went wit the double edge for the gut hook. Some prefer it to be a one sided edge, for easy sharpening, But both me and my brother think this is nicer (and much more complicated to do right)
My tiny gas forge
I use it to heat treat my O-1 tool steel knives.
O-1 tool steel is easy to heat treat at home, this is the main reason I have choosen this type of steel.
You just heat it up -as evenly as you can- untill it is not attracted to a magnet anymore, and quench it in pre-heated oil. Any type of oil will do, I went for 10w40 engine oil, fresh out of the bucket.
After quenching, you need to temper it. Of course, there are much more fophisticated ways to temper a knife, soon I will build my PID controlled electric kiln. More on that in the near future!
I have done 2 x 200C cycles in the kitchen oven, it should result in 62.5 on the Rockwell C scale. I now believe, I should have gone for higher temperatures, to achieve something around 60-61 HRC.
Lansky sharpening sysetm had a hard time creating the edge
Now I know why... :D:D
I for sure have little experience with knife making, and even less in handle making, but I have to tell you one thing: Working with Kirinite is a dream! The material itself is tough, but it is very easy to work with. Here I went only up to p180 sandpaper. It has a silky touch to it, and I'd like to caress it the whole day (a pity, that I have given it away already).
The blade is sanded to p240, and hand polished, since I dont have any polishing machine yet.
Kydex sheath. 1.5mm thick material, with drip. (the drip is an idea taken from Gough Custom knives)
As for the first run, I forgot to put the drip, and have put the top layer upside down, with the shiny side out. Thankfully Kydex is a thermoplastic, that can be re-moulded almost any number of times. I just took it apart, re-heated it, and pressed it again: this time it turned out perfectly, with the drip in.
The amount of rivets might be an overkill :D:D
Sorry, my first one :)
The scratch marks on the blade are from the Lansky sharpener, I was not careful enough.
Unfortunately I did not have the idea of writing this blog back then, so I don't have too many pictures on file. :( I for sure will document my future knives (both photo and video).
 |
| The finished gut hook knife, wih Kirinite Lava handle |
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| 2.2x40mm O-1 steel |
 |
| Slightly modifyed GH1 Gut Hook Hunter (DC Knives) |
I have drawn the shape of the knife on the steel bar. (knife pattern is from DC Knives, thank you Dan for your work with all this knife patterns) After cutting out the rough shape with the angle grinder, I have filed out te final shape of the knife, drilled a way too big hole (10mm), way too deep for the gut hook :), drilled a hole for the ricasso. I have modifíed the original pattern of Dan, by making the spine of the knife a bit higher, making it a nice arc. Since my brother has a bigger hand, the handle is 2mm wider, than the original drawing.
As you can see, I have burned the gut hook a tiny bit with the angle grinder, but this is no issue, since the cutting will take effect in side the circle, where an edge will be created.
 |
| Ready for heat treat |
Sanded with p180 sandpaper, gut hook is already pretty close to sharp. I went wit the double edge for the gut hook. Some prefer it to be a one sided edge, for easy sharpening, But both me and my brother think this is nicer (and much more complicated to do right)
 |
| Tiny, home made gas forge |
My tiny gas forge
I use it to heat treat my O-1 tool steel knives.
O-1 tool steel is easy to heat treat at home, this is the main reason I have choosen this type of steel.
You just heat it up -as evenly as you can- untill it is not attracted to a magnet anymore, and quench it in pre-heated oil. Any type of oil will do, I went for 10w40 engine oil, fresh out of the bucket.
After quenching, you need to temper it. Of course, there are much more fophisticated ways to temper a knife, soon I will build my PID controlled electric kiln. More on that in the near future!
 |
| Tempering in the oven. Temperature setting might a bit low... |
Lansky sharpening sysetm had a hard time creating the edge
Now I know why... :D:D
 |
| Kirinite... gotta love this material |
I for sure have little experience with knife making, and even less in handle making, but I have to tell you one thing: Working with Kirinite is a dream! The material itself is tough, but it is very easy to work with. Here I went only up to p180 sandpaper. It has a silky touch to it, and I'd like to caress it the whole day (a pity, that I have given it away already).
The blade is sanded to p240, and hand polished, since I dont have any polishing machine yet.
 |
| Kydex sheath with drip stick |
As for the first run, I forgot to put the drip, and have put the top layer upside down, with the shiny side out. Thankfully Kydex is a thermoplastic, that can be re-moulded almost any number of times. I just took it apart, re-heated it, and pressed it again: this time it turned out perfectly, with the drip in.
 |
| Finished Visag knife |
Sorry, my first one :)
The scratch marks on the blade are from the Lansky sharpener, I was not careful enough.
And here is the finished knife in its Kydex sheath, I made for it.
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